How to Transfer Artwork to a Metal Case

Starting with a powder-coated metal stomp box case, I investigated methods of transferring to its face the detailed artwork and control labelling.

YouTube videos show how the color toner of the laser printed graphics can be captured from slick label backing paper in a clear acrylic gel applied to the metal surface of the box. Some methods use heat, others do not, and just let the acrylic dry on its own.

After trying this, and researching several on-line videos, two things become clear:

1. The choice of slick label backing paper is important. It must be able to withstand the heat of the laser printing process, pass through the printer’s rollers, have enough “grippiness” to take the toner powders and hold them in place, and yet have enough slickness to release the toner to the acrylic medium without bleeding into it and smearing the images.

2. The choice of laser printer is important. Not all laser printers can pass the label backing paper through their rollers (see choice of paper above). Sometimes the paper slips and the printed image is offset, and sometimes the paper gets chewed up in the machine. Some printers do not bake the right amount of toner to make a good transfer.

My attempts with this process went down in flames.

I found clear label sticker paper at a local craft store that made great high-definition color prints of the front panel artwork on my home inkjet printer. I cut out the artwork to fit the metal box front panel, removed the backing, and stuck it to the case. Moisture on the label smears the ink, so I sprayed the label with a few coats of clear sealer. This approach provided very clear artwork and labelling. Powder-coated aluminum is not perfectly smooth, and the surface has a shallow texture to it. Hence, the clear sticker did not adhere to the lower areas of the face, and I observed air pockets when the surface was observed at certain angles. This process was not good enough.

To solve the problem, I applied a THIN coat of the clear acrylic gel to the case face prior to setting down the label. I then took a roller and GENTLY rolled the surface from bottom to top in one motion, smoothing out the gel under the label. I wiped gel from both the case edges and the roller before GENTLY rolling the surface in a different direction. After rolling, the label had a uniform appearance at any viewing angle.

In summary, here are the steps that I use to get professional-looking labelling on my powder-coated aluminum boxes:

1. Use isopropyl alcohol to clean the case surface.

The photo below shows the metal surface texture with air pockets underneath a label that was simply stuck to the surface.

2. Print the design on a clear sticky label paper sheet appropriate to the printer you are using; print multiple images of the design to fill each 8-1/2 x 11” sheet

3. Spray sealer to evenly cover the whole label sheet

4. Cut each design to fit the shape of the face of the powder-coated case

5. Apply a THIN, even coat of gloss acrylic gel to the case surface (eg: Liquitex Professional Acrylic Mediums™). Normally, all of the case openings for user controls would already be drilled out.

6. Set the label in place and flatten it out GENTLY with an applicator roller as described in the paragraph above (eg: Cricut® Applicator). Do not get any gel on the label surface.

7. Use isopropyl alcohol on a small cloth to remove any gel that dried on the case around the label edges.

8. Allow to dry for 8-12 hours.

The “pooching” out of the dog tag in the photo (please excuse the pun) is due to bending the tag clasp image over the edge of the case, under the top label. Adhesion is achieved by applying even pressure to the end of the case with a small stack of books while drying.

9. Cut the label material out around the user control openings with a sharp knife. No openings are shown in the photo above, but you can see where they should be.

Bye for now,

Ken Buttle